The installation is pretty straight forward once the mounting location for the Filter Mount Assembly is determined. There is no room to mount the assembly on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. So, the next choice was in front of, and below, the radiator, on the bottom front of the core support. Directly behind the front bumper actually. The core support is hollow; “D” shaped and welded together at this location. There wasn’t enough room to install the four nuts on the 1 ½” x ¼” bolts supplied with the kit. That would have involved drilling the required four ¼” holes completely through the core support, and with that done, there isn’t enough room on the back side of the support to install the four nuts. So, I opted to use four #14 x ¾” hex head self drilling screws (purchased at Home Depot) to attach the mounting bracket to the core support.
1) Loosely assemble the Mounting Brackets (top and bottom) on the Filter Mount Assembly using the four bolts and nuts provided. Do not attach the filters.
2) Position the assembly on the core support to determine the best possible mounting location. Looking from front to rear of the vehicle, I felt the best location would be just left of center of the support. In that position, there is a vertical support brace directly above the Filter Mount Assembly. One edge of the brace hits the Filter Mount Assembly slightly when in the best position. So, I used a piece of leather (as a pad) and a hammer to move a small section of the support brace back maybe a ¼”. With that done, the assembly fit perfectly.
3) Holding the assembly in the best possible mounting position, mark the outside edge of the Mounting Bracket on the core support with something easy to see (outline it).
4) Disassemble the Mounting Brackets (top and bottom) from the Filter Mount Assembly.
5) Using the paper template provided in the kit, and some cellophane tape, tape the template inside the marks on the support in the exact position you want the Mounting Bracket
Note: There isn’t enough working room in this area to use a hammer and center punch, or a standard drill.
6) Using a 90 degree offset drill and a “small” sharp bit, drill a pilot holes through the center lines of the four mounting bolt holes on the template. Go slow and be careful to not let the drill bit walk. The support is “D” shaped and you only need to drill through the metal the template is taped to. Remove the template when done.
7) Place the (top) Mounting Bracket on the support, centered over the pilot holes (use an inspection mirror if necessary), and tape the bracket to the support. I used clear (wide) cellophane packaging tape.
8) Using a 90 degree offset drill and a 7/16” nut driver, install the four #14 x ¾’ self drilling screws. Do not over tighten.
9) Remove the screws and Mounting Bracket and clean up any metal chip between the bracket and the core support.
Note: I used silicon sealer for weather proofing and rust prevention.
10) Place silicon sealer on the back of the (top) Mounting Bracket and install it with the two top screws.
11) Place silicon sealer on the back of the (bottom) Mounting Bracket and install it with the two bottom screws.
12) Install all hose attaching fittings and plug in the Filter Mount Assembly and attach the Filter Mount Assembly to the Mounting Brackets as per instruction. Do not install filters.
The next phases of installation are: to mount the Spin-On Casting where the oil filter is normally attached, assemble the oil lines, and connect the Spin-On Casting to the Filter Mount Assembly.
Note: For this application, I purchased the two optional 90 degree Fittings sold by Amsoil (part number BK-11). Because the two oil lines need to go 90 degrees straight down from the fittings of the Spin-On Casting. Bending the hoses 90 degrees would exceed the recommended maximum bend radius of the hose.
1) Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. Reinstall the oil drain plug and torque to specs.
Note: The Spin-On Casting that replaces the old oil filter does not require the “O” Ring Casting provided with this kit on a 1FZ FE engine.
2) Install the two hose fittings in the Spin-On Casting as per instructions, using thread sealant (Loctite 545) that comes with the kit.
3) Apply thread sealant to the outside thread of the 13/16” -16 and 20mm-1.5mm (blue) adapter (this sounds like two adapters, but it is only one).
4) Install the adapter with the knurled side out in Spin-On Casting.
5) Install the “O” Ring Small 2 ½” I.D. into the Spin-On Casting using a little general purpose grease or oil.
6) Assure there is grease or oil on the “o” ring and attach the Spin-On Casting to the engine filter nipple and tighten per instructions. Attempt to get the two oil line fittings as horizontal as possible to assist in proper oil line routing later.
7) Assemble the Hose Fitting on the end of the oil line that will attach to the “out” (red) fitting as per instruction.
8) Attach the 90 degree short fitting to the assembled hose and torque to specs.
9) Remove the front engine guard cover from under the vehicle (four bolts).
Note: The next few steps involve routing the two oil hoses from the Spin-On Casting forward to the Filter Mount Assemble. Caution should be used to prevent the hoses from touching anything in route except each other, but they should not cross. They will be secured to each other later with plastic ties.
10) From the top of the engine compartment snake the first hose (unfitted end first) down past the Spin-On Casting, making a 90 degree turn toward the front for the vehicle, and eventually passing through the 1 ¾” lightening hole in the front support.
11) Adjust the hose as needed and attach the 90 degree short fitting to the (red) fitting on the Spin-On Casting and torque to specs.
12) Adjust and cut the hose to the correct length at the Filter Mount Assemble end, giving enough room for normal engine movement. The hose should be loosely fitted.
13) Install the Hose Fitting on the hose and attach to the “in” fitting on the Filter Mount Assemble and torque to specs.
14) From the top of the engine compartment snake the second hose (unfitted end first) down past the Spin-On Casting, making a 90 degree turn toward the front for the vehicle, and eventually passing through the 1 ¾” lightening hole in the front support. Do not cross the two oil hoses.
15) Repeat step 12 above.
16) Install the Hose Fitting on the hose and attach to the “out” fitting on the Filter Mount Assemble and torque to specs.
17) Using plastic ties, secure the two hoses to each other. A lot of ties are not necessary (maybe in four or five places).
18) Where the two hoses pass through the lighting hole, suspend the hoses with plastic ties so the hoses do not touch the metal, or use some type of insulation to prevent the hoses from rubbing the metal.
19) Perform a QA check to assure the hoses are not crossed, are secured with ties, and the hoses do not touch the metal lightening hole or rub on anything along the way.
20) Check and torque all hose fitting to specs.
21) Pre-fill the filter with oil and install the By-Pass Filter first, located closet to the hoses, as per instruction.
22) Pre-fill the filter with oil and install the Full-Flow Filter, as per instruction.
23) Fill the engine with oil, up to the normal level on the dip stick.
24) Make one last visual inspection of the work.
25) Using a buddy, have him/her start the engine, watching the oil pressure gage closely. If there is no pressure in about 5-10 seconds, shut the engine down immediately and troubleshoot.
26) With good oil pressure, visually inspect for leaks using a good flash light.
27) Run the engine for a minute and shut it down. Inspect for leaks and fix all.
28) Check the oil level and add as required.
29) Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Inspect for leaks and fix all.
30) Reinstall the front engine guard cover.
31) You’re finished.
32) Every day for a few days, inspect for leaks and monitor oil pressure.